How to Kill Weeds Permanently : Get Rid of Weeds Forever

Weeds grow in driveways, block paving, gravel, artificial grass, lawns, borders, and walls. Killing them permanently requires understanding why they grow and choosing the right control method for the situation.

This guide covers every effective approach — from prevention and manual removal to chemical herbicides and homemade weed killers. It also includes surface-specific advice for hard standings, lawns, and problem plants like brambles, ivy, and horsetail.

Understanding Weeds

A weed is any plant growing where you do not want it. That includes wild plants in paving cracks, self-seeded trees in borders, and even cultivated plants like ivy or brambles that have spread beyond their intended area.

Annual vs Perennial Weeds

Annual weeds (chickweed, hairy bittercress, groundsel) complete their lifecycle in one season. They are relatively easy to kill but produce large quantities of seed, so new plants appear quickly if the soil is disturbed or left bare.

Perennial weeds (dandelions, bindweed, ground elder, horsetail) survive winter through deep root systems, rhizomes, or tubers. Removing the top growth alone will not kill them — the roots regenerate new shoots, sometimes from fragments as small as a few centimetres.

Why Weeds Are Hard to Kill Permanently

Three factors make permanent weed removal difficult. First, perennial root systems can extend deep underground, making complete extraction almost impossible by hand. Second, dormant weed seeds in the soil (the “seed bank”) can remain viable for years, germinating whenever conditions are right. Third, new seeds constantly arrive via wind, birds, and footwear.

Permanent weed control therefore requires a combination of killing existing weeds and preventing new ones from establishing.

Prevention – The Most Effective Strategy

Preventing weeds from establishing in the first place is far more effective than removing them after the fact. A proactive approach saves significant time, effort, and money over repeated treatments.

Mulching

A thick layer of mulch (7–10cm) blocks light from reaching the soil surface, preventing weed seeds from germinating. Organic mulches like bark, wood chip, and composted material also improve soil structure as they break down.

For maximum suppression, you can layer cardboard or newspaper beneath the mulch. This creates a physical barrier while the organic material above decomposes and feeds the soil.

Weed Control Fabric

For permanent hard surfaces, weed control fabric is essential. Install it beneath new paths, patios, and driveways — ideally two layers for extra protection. It allows water drainage while blocking light and preventing root penetration.

Temporary barriers like plastic sheeting or old carpet can also smother existing weed growth over one to two seasons, though they are less durable than purpose-made fabric.

Soil Management and Weed Seeds

Every soil contains dormant weed seeds waiting for light and moisture. Disturbing the soil — through rotavating or deep digging — brings buried seeds to the surface where they germinate rapidly.

When planting a new area, avoid heavy tilling. Instead, plant into compost mounds above the existing soil, or use transplants rather than direct sowing. Keep bare soil covered at all times: plant it, mulch it, or cover it.

• Use thick weed control fabric under new paths, patios, and driveways
• Apply weed control sand between block paving joints
• Remove new weed growth immediately — before it sets seed
• Never leave bare soil exposed; cover, mulch, or plant it

Manual Weed Control Methods

Hand Pulling and Weeding Tools

Hand pulling is the most straightforward method and works well for annual weeds. The key is to remove the entire root system — pull slowly and steadily from the base of the plant, ideally after rain when the soil is soft.

For perennial weeds, hand pulling alone is rarely sufficient. Even a small root fragment left behind will regenerate. A daisy grubber, garden knife, or long-handled weeding tool helps extract deeper roots, but complete removal of established perennials by hand is difficult.

Hoeing

Regular hoeing severs young weed seedlings just below the soil surface. It is most effective on dry, sunny days when severed weeds desiccate quickly. Hoeing works well as a maintenance tool for borders and vegetable beds but does not reach the roots of established perennials.

Flame Weeding

Gas-powered flame guns destroy weed foliage on contact. They are particularly useful for weeds growing in paving cracks, along path edges, and on driveways. Flame weeding kills annual weeds outright but typically only scorches the top growth of perennials, which will regrow from the roots.

Boiling Water

Boiling water is a surprisingly effective method for small annual weeds in paving cracks and path joints. Simply pour boiling water directly onto the weed. The heat destroys the plant cells and, for small weeds with shallow roots, this can be a permanent kill.

Larger, established weeds will regrow from roots that the hot water cannot reach. Use with care — boiling water does not discriminate and will damage any plant it contacts.

Chemical Weed Control

Systemic herbicides are the most reliable way to kill weeds permanently, including established perennials with deep root systems. Unlike contact methods (vinegar, boiling water, flame guns) that only destroy visible growth, systemic herbicides are absorbed through the foliage and translocated to the roots.

Glyphosate

Glyphosate is the most widely used systemic herbicide. It kills virtually all plant types by disrupting a key enzyme pathway. Once applied to active, green foliage, glyphosate moves through the plant’s vascular system to the root tips.

Key points about glyphosate:

• Non-selective — it will kill any plant it contacts, including grass and desirable plants
• Apply when weeds are actively growing (April–September) for best results
• Allow 2–4 weeks for full die-back before removing dead growth
• Becomes inactive on contact with soil, allowing replanting after a few weeks
• Apply on a dry, calm day with no rain forecast for at least 6 hours

Triclopyr

Triclopyr is a selective systemic herbicide that targets broadleaf plants and woody species without harming grasses. It is particularly effective against tough weeds like brambles, nettles, and woody stumps.

When to Use Chemical Control

Chemical weed killers are most appropriate when dealing with established perennial weeds, large infestations, or weeds growing in hard-to-reach areas (wall crevices, deep paving joints). For small numbers of annual weeds, manual removal is often sufficient.

Always read the product label and follow application rates. Over-application wastes product and increases environmental impact without improving results.

Do Homemade Weed Killers Work?

Homemade weed killers are widely discussed online, but the reality is that most are contact-only solutions that burn foliage without affecting roots. Here is an honest assessment of the most common options.

Salt

Salt can kill small, weak weeds on hard surfaces by dehydrating the plant tissue. However, it does not penetrate deep root systems, so perennial weeds will regrow. Salt persists in soil and prevents all plant growth, making it unsuitable for any area where you want to grow plants in the future. It can take several days to several weeks to show results.

Verdict: Limited effectiveness. Only suitable for hard surfaces where no future planting is planned.

Vinegar

Vinegar is an acid-based contact weed killer that burns away the top growth of weeds but leaves roots intact. Standard household vinegar (5% acetic acid) has minimal effect. Horticultural vinegar (up to 30% acetic acid) is more potent but still only affects surface growth.

Verdict: Does not kill weeds permanently. Regrowth is almost certain for perennials.

Bleach

Bleach is not an effective weed killer. It may scorch some foliage on contact, but it does not kill roots. It is also harmful to soil biology, aquatic life, pets, and beneficial insects. There is no scenario where bleach is the best option for weed control.

Verdict: Not recommended. Ineffective and environmentally damaging.

Boiling Water

Boiling water is the most effective homemade option. It kills small annual weeds outright and is safe for the environment. It works best on weeds in paving cracks and path joints where you can pour directly onto the plant. It will not kill established perennials with deep root systems.

Verdict: Effective on small annual weeds in hard surfaces. The best homemade option, but limited in scope.

Weed Killing Methods Compared

Killing Weeds on Hard Surfaces

Hard surfaces — paths, driveways, patios, and block paving — are prone to weed growth in joints, cracks, and edges. Prevention with weed control fabric during installation is the most effective long-term approach. For existing weeds, a combination of removal and joint maintenance will keep surfaces clear.

Paths

Weeds colonise paths through cracks in concrete, gaps between slabs, and edges where soil meets the surface. For manual control, use a garden knife or patio scraper to remove weeds from joints, then fill gaps with weed control sand or polymeric jointing compound to prevent regrowth.

For chemical control, apply a systemic weed killer on a warm, dry day. The herbicide will kill weeds to the root, and treated areas typically remain clear for several months.

Block Paving

Block paving has more joints per square metre than any other hard surface, making it particularly vulnerable to weed growth. Use a hoe or paving scraper to remove weeds, then re-sand the joints with kiln-dried or polymeric sand.

For persistent weeds, a systemic herbicide applied with a pump sprayer provides thorough coverage across large paved areas. For a comprehensive guide, see our dedicated article on killing weeds on block paving.

Driveways

Driveway weeds are both unsightly and can cause structural damage as roots widen cracks over time. Manual options include flame weeding, digging out with a garden tool, or covering with tarpaulin to smother growth.

Chemical control with a systemic weed killer is the most efficient approach for large driveways. The herbicide kills weeds to the roots and prevents regrowth for an extended period. For more detail, read our full guide on killing driveway weeds permanently.

For gravel driveways specifically, see our guide on preventing weeds on gravel driveways.

Patios

Patio weed control follows the same principles as paths. For manual control, use a patio scraper or garden knife to remove weeds from joints, then apply weed control sand. Regular vinegar solution sprayed into joints can help suppress new growth as a preventative measure.

For established weeds, a glyphosate-based systemic weed killer will eliminate them to the root. Reapply weed control sand after treatment to maintain a physical barrier in the joints.

Walls

Weeds growing from wall crevices are difficult to access manually. A vinegar solution sprayed directly onto wall weeds can scorch small growth, and a garden knife can dislodge plants from accessible joints.

For effective permanent control, a systemic herbicide applied to the foliage will kill the plant to the root. This is particularly important for wall weeds, as physical removal can dislodge mortar and cause structural damage.

Killing Weeds on Your Lawn

Lawn weed control differs from hard surface treatment because you need to kill the weeds without damaging the grass. Prevention is the foundation: a thick, healthy lawn leaves no space for weeds to establish.

Lawn Weed Prevention

Ensure proper drainage and apply a quality fertiliser at least once per year. A well-fed lawn produces dense growth that outcompetes weed seedlings for light, water, and nutrients.

Bare patches are open invitations for weeds. Fill them promptly with a fast-growing grass seed. If you are preparing a new lawn from seed, thorough ground preparation will significantly reduce future weed problems.

For an in-depth approach, read our complete guide to winning the battle against lawn weeds.

Manual Lawn Weed Control

Use a daisy grubber or hand fork to extract individual weeds, ensuring you remove the full root. For lawn moss, the solution is improving conditions rather than removal alone — aerate the soil, improve drainage, and treat with a moss killer before raking out dead material.

Chemical Lawn Weed Control

A weed and feed product combines selective herbicide with lawn fertiliser. The herbicide targets broadleaf weeds while leaving grass unharmed, and the fertiliser strengthens the lawn to resist future weed invasion.

For targeted control of individual weeds, glyphosate gel can be painted directly onto specific plants. This avoids spray drift onto surrounding grass. Apply carefully — glyphosate will kill any plant it contacts.

Replacing Your Lawn

If your lawn is beyond recovery, sometimes the best option is to kill the grass permanently and start again — either with new turf, seed, or an alternative like artificial grass.

Manual method: Use a sod cutter or spade to strip the turf. This is the fastest approach and allows immediate replanting.

Chemical method: Apply glyphosate to the entire lawn. Wait 2–4 weeks for complete die-back, then remove dead material and replant. Glyphosate becomes inactive in the soil, so the area is safe for new planting within a few weeks.

Killing Unwanted Plants

Some plants are particularly difficult to eradicate once established. Deep root systems, vigorous spreading habits, and dormant seeds make these species persistent problems. Here is how to deal with the most common offenders.

Brambles

Brambles have deep, woody root systems and thorny stems that make manual removal physically demanding. They spread via rooting stem tips and seeds distributed by birds.

Manual control:

• Cut stems back to 30cm from ground level
• Dig out roots and the bramble stump, removing as much material as possible
• Burn removed stems — do not compost, as they can re-root

Chemical control:

• Cut back stems but leave sufficient leaf area to absorb herbicide
• Apply a systemic weed killer to green leaves and stems (April–August)
• Wait 2–4 weeks; reapply if regrowth occurs
• Once brown and dead, dig out and dispose of the remains

Ivy

English ivy is one of the most persistent plants to remove. Its waxy leaf surface resists herbicide absorption, and it regenerates from even small root fragments left in the ground.

Manual control:

• Cut back all top growth and dig out stems and woody roots
• Alternatively, cut back all growth, lay weed control fabric, and cover with 15cm of bark for two seasons

Chemical control:

• Apply systemic weed killer mixed with a drop of washing-up liquid (to help penetrate the waxy leaves)
• Coat leaves and stems thoroughly, avoiding spray on desirable plants
• Wait one month; reapply if regrowth appears

Note: ivy growing on trees can benefit wildlife. Before removing tree ivy, consider whether it is causing genuine damage or simply providing habitat.

Horsetail (Mare’s Tail)

Horsetail is among the most stubborn weeds in UK gardens. Its roots can extend over two metres deep, and the plant reproduces via spores rather than seeds, making it highly resilient.

Manual control: Hand pull or hoe regularly to weaken the plant over time. Remove as much root as possible when digging. Consistent removal over multiple seasons is necessary — horsetail will not be eliminated in a single effort.

Chemical control: Glyphosate-based herbicides can be effective but typically require multiple applications. Bruise or crush the stems before spraying to help the herbicide penetrate the plant’s waxy coating. Apply during active growth and expect to treat repeatedly over at least one full growing season.

Ground Elder

Ground elder (bishop’s weed) spreads through an extensive network of underground rhizomes. Even small fragments left in the soil will produce new plants, making complete manual removal extremely difficult.

Manual control: Dig out as much root as possible. Cover the area with a physical barrier — black plastic sheeting or old carpet — for at least two growing seasons to exhaust the root system. Remove any new growth that appears at the edges immediately.

Chemical control: Apply glyphosate directly to the leaves. To avoid harming nearby plants, paint the herbicide onto individual ground elder leaves with a small brush rather than spraying. Multiple treatments over several growing seasons may be necessary for complete eradication.

Stinging Nettles

Stinging nettles spread through both seeds and creeping underground rhizomes. They form dense patches quickly and are a common problem in neglected areas, along fence lines, and at the base of hedges.

Manual control: Wear thick gloves and protective clothing. Use a digging fork to loosen the soil and pull out the root network. Cover cleared areas with cardboard or several layers of newspaper to suppress regrowth.

Chemical control: For large nettle infestations, a herbicide containing glyphosate or triclopyr will kill the plants to the root. Apply during active growth when nettles are 30–60cm tall for best absorption.

Note: nettles are valuable for wildlife, particularly as a food source for butterfly larvae. Consider leaving a small patch in an out-of-the-way area if space allows.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most effective way to kill weeds permanently?

A systemic herbicide containing glyphosate is the most effective method for killing weeds permanently. It is absorbed through the leaves and travels to the root system, killing the entire plant. Combined with prevention measures like mulching or weed control fabric, this approach provides long-term results.

Do homemade weed killers actually work?

Homemade weed killers like vinegar, salt, and boiling water can kill small annual weeds on contact but will not permanently eliminate perennial weeds with established root systems. Boiling water is the most effective homemade option for weeds in paving cracks. For permanent results on tough weeds, a systemic herbicide is necessary.

How do I stop weeds from growing back?

Prevention is the key. Use weed control fabric under hard surfaces, apply thick mulch in borders and beds, fill paving joints with weed control sand, and never leave bare soil uncovered. Kill existing weeds with a systemic herbicide before they set seed, and remove new growth as soon as it appears.

Is it better to pull weeds or spray them?

Hand pulling works well for annual weeds and small infestations where the full root can be extracted. For perennial weeds with deep roots (dandelions, bindweed, ground elder, horsetail), spraying with a systemic herbicide is more effective because it kills the root system that hand pulling cannot fully remove.

When is the best time to spray weed killer?

Apply systemic herbicides between April and September when weeds are actively growing. The plant needs to be photosynthesising to absorb and transport the herbicide to its roots. Choose a dry, calm day with no rain forecast for at least 6 hours. Avoid spraying in frost, drought, or high wind conditions.

Will weed killer damage my paving or driveway?

Glyphosate-based weed killers will not damage hard surfaces. They are designed to affect plant biology only and become inactive on contact with inorganic materials. However, avoid using salt on natural stone as it can cause surface deterioration over time.

How long does it take for weed killer to work?

Systemic herbicides typically show visible results within 7–14 days, with complete die-back in 2–4 weeks. Contact methods like vinegar or boiling water show results within hours but only affect the top growth. Salt can take several days to weeks depending on the weed size and weather conditions.

Can I use weed killer on my lawn?

Standard glyphosate weed killers will kill grass as well as weeds. For lawns, use a selective herbicide (such as a weed and feed product) that targets broadleaf weeds while leaving grass unharmed. Alternatively, use glyphosate gel applied directly to individual weeds to avoid affecting the surrounding grass.